Last time I visited the Drummoyne Bakehouse, I reviewed the sausage roll and one of the two different vanilla slices available. Yes, they had two types: one with vanilla icing, and one with iced sugar on top. I chose the vanilla icing, and the slice earned the maximum 10/10 with its combination crisp shard-like pastry, rich vanilla custard, and extra vanilla and sweetness from the icing.
This time, I had to try the second option. After selecting a pie for the savoury part of lunch, I took it and my icing sugar slice over to Drummoyne Park, to sit in the shade of a tree and let our dog play in the grass while eating.
The slice is the same construction as the icing version, with the only difference being the dusting of powdered white sugar on top in lieu of the pale yellow icing. The three layers of pastry looks crisp and well baked, thick and biscuity, with lots of flakes evident. The custard is pale yellow and creamy looking.
As with the previous slice, the first bite threatens to demolish the slice, with shards of pastry going everywhere and soft custard oozing out from between the pastry pressure plates. Blobs of custard drip onto the paper bag and I have to manoeuvre the slice carefully through all three rotational axes to avoid more falling out. It’s a nibble and lick job, as biting the layers just squeezes more custard out.
The pastry is brilliant. Super crispy and fresh, not a trace of sogginess. It feels good to have a slice this obviously fresh. The custard texture is perfect too. But the flavour is a bit of a let down. It’s not so solid in the vanilla department. The icing sugar layer on top adds nothing but a faint tinge of sweetness, and I feel that a bit more oomph is needed, both sweetness and vanilla. It’s clear that the iced version achieves both of these additions, whereas the icing sugar version comes across as a little bit anaemic in flavour. It’s still a delicious experience, but I’m disappointed by the fact that I know it could be better – in fact that there is a significantly better vanilla slice sitting back in the bakery next to the icing sugar versions.
If you visit the Drummoyne Bakehouse, go for the iced slice, and pass on the icing sugar.
Vanilla slice (icing sugar top): 8/10